Dazzling gems shine through time

Dazzling Gems Shine Through Time

Color-themed posters for the exhibition 'The Art of Jewellery' at the Lotte Museum of Art / Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Art

Coloration-themed posters for the exhibition „The Artwork of Jewelry“ on the Lotte Museum of Artwork / Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Artwork

Kazumi Arikawa’s historic jewellery assortment lands in Seoul
By Park Han-sol

At 72, Kazumi Arikawa’s life has been something however easy. Rising up within the southern Japanese metropolis of Fukuoka, he was raised by a single mom who ran a up to date jewellery retailer. But, when it got here time to search out his personal calling, he set out on a meandering journey of self-discovery.

Japanese antique jewelry dealer and collector Kazumi Arikawa speaks during a press preview for 'The Art of Jewellery' exhibition, presented to showcase his 208-piece collection, at the Lotte Museum of Art in southern Seoul, Dec. 5, 2024. Newsis

Japanese vintage jewellery supplier and collector Kazumi Arikawa speaks throughout a press preview for „The Artwork of Jewelry“ exhibition, introduced to showcase his 208-piece assortment, on the Lotte Museum of Artwork in southern Seoul, Dec. 5, 2024. Newsis

His first cease was Buddhism, dedicating two years to coaching as a monk. Nevertheless, the disciplined, ascetic life-style wasn’t the precise match, and he ultimately returned to the secular world. For a time, he aspired to turn out to be a college professor, however his deep-seated lack of self-confidence stood in his means.

In 1982, throughout a go to to the jewellery gallery at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, he skilled what he later described as a “heart-shaking” second — one that might change his life perpetually.

Returning to Japan, Arikawa joined his household enterprise, now managed by his sister, however with a brand new imaginative and prescient: to deal in vintage Western gems, treating them as timeless artworks — treasures which have withstood the take a look at of time for millennia, radiating their silent, enduring sparkles.

It turned out to be a strategic enterprise determination, too, as Japan on the time “lacked a Western-style custom of jewellery,” he famous in a 2020 interview with The New York Instances, leaving him with little competitors out there.

For him, the give attention to jewellery additionally retained an sudden connection along with his Buddhist religion. In non secular artwork, bodhisattvas are sometimes adorned with elaborate clothes, tiaras, necklaces and anklets to represent the transcendent magnificence and splendor of paradise.

Ruby-and-diamond bracelets that once belonged to the Duchesse d'Angouleme, the eldest daughter of Queen Marie Antoinette / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

Ruby-and-diamond bracelets that after belonged to the Duchesse d’Angouleme, the eldest daughter of Queen Marie Antoinette / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

An iron demi-parure from 19th-century Germany / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

An iron demi-parure from Nineteenth-century Germany / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

Queen Victoria's coronation girandole earrings (1761) and a bangle offered by the English queen to Queen Stephanie of Portugal (1858) / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

Queen Victoria’s coronation girandole earrings (1761) and a bangle provided by the English queen to Queen Stephanie of Portugal (1858) / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

A chatelaine and watch of the Duke of Wellington (1809) / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

A chatelaine and watch of the Duke of Wellington (1809) / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

With this perception, he based Albion Artwork, an vintage jewellery store in Fukuoka, and commenced constructing his private assortment alongside it.

During the last 4 many years, the Japanese supplier and collector has amassed over 500 historic ornaments. His acquisitions — regarded by specialists as one of many world’s most intensive non-public collections of valuable jewels — span the breadth of Western historical past, from historic Mesopotamian and Greek artifacts to European royal treasures, in addition to gems from the Artwork Nouveau and Artwork Deco actions.

And now, a curated collection of 208 masterpieces from Arikawa’s holding has arrived on the Lotte Museum of Artwork in southern Seoul for its first-ever public outing from storage.

Whereas a handful of his jewels have beforehand been featured in distinguished exhibitions, together with on the V&A Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Artwork, “The Artwork of Jewelry” marks the primary time the gathering is being revealed on such a big scale.

Installation view of the 'Ring' section at the Lotte Museum of Art's 'The Art of Jewellery' / Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Art

Set up view of the „Ring“ part on the Lotte Museum of Artwork’s „The Artwork of Jewelry“ / Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Artwork

Hellenistic gold necklace and earrings from 4th-century BCE Greece / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

Hellenistic gold necklace and earrings from 4th-century BCE Greece / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

A 19th-century gold-and-aquamarine parure of the Marchioness of Rumigny / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

A Nineteenth-century gold-and-aquamarine parure of the Marchioness of Rumigny / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

“I consider that jewellery is extra than simply adornment or luxurious; it carries a deeper, greater religious essence,” Arikawa remarked throughout a latest press preview on the Seoul museum. “Gems possess a timelessness unmatched by the rest on Earth, with a lifespan and sweetness far exceeding that of humanity.”

As a working towards Buddhist, he additionally expressed profound gratitude towards Korea, referencing King Seong of the Baekje Dynasty, who launched Buddhist statues and scriptures to Japan within the sixth century and laid the inspiration for the faith to take root there.

“Due to this fact, I consider Japan owes Korea a major historic debt,” he mentioned. “If this exhibition, designed to current the essence of elegant magnificence, can repay even 100-millionth of the grace Korea confirmed us again then, it will convey me immense pleasure.”

A 5,100-year-old marble pig amulet from Mesopotamia; a Hellenistic golden wreath of olive leaves; a pure pearl brooch as soon as donned by Russia’s Catherine the Nice; Queen Victoria’s coronation earrings; an Artwork Nouveau decoration co-designed by Alphonse Mucha and Georges Fouquet; a Nineteenth-century diamond-and-topaz parure from the Royal Home of Württemberg; and a Cartier Japanese Backyard Clock, crafted from valuable minerals and coral, all shimmer brilliantly in darkness — a spatial idea envisioned by celebrated Japanese architect Kengo Kuma.

An early 19th-century topaz-and-diamond parure from the Royal House of Württemberg / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol

An early Nineteenth-century topaz-and-diamond parure from the Royal Home of Württemberg / Korea Instances picture by Park Han-sol

However the true spotlight of the present lies towards the top.

One devoted part showcases 31 tiaras — objects of Arikawa’s explicit fascination. Radiant like halos, tiaras have lengthy been a marker of royalty and sacred standing. But, originally of his amassing journey, these adornments have been thought of “out of vogue” and largely neglected by different monied aficionados.

Gracing this part are diamond tiaras in quite a lot of motifs — ears of wheat, flowers, Valkyrie wings and the Star of Bethlehem — as soon as worn by European royalty and the Aristocracy, now glowing as historic testaments to beautiful craftsmanship.

A rock crystal cross of Christ and the evangelists, crafted by Renaissance master gem engraver Valerio Belli between 1515 and 1520 / Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Art

A rock crystal cross of Christ and the evangelists, crafted by Renaissance grasp gem engraver Valerio Belli between 1515 and 1520 / Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Artwork

Valerio Belli's cross is said to contain fragments of the True Cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified — fragments authenticated by the Vatican. Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Art

Valerio Belli’s cross is alleged to include fragments of the True Cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified — fragments authenticated by the Vatican. Courtesy of Lotte Museum of Artwork

As their promenade by way of the backyard of tiaras attracts to an in depth, guests are led right into a ultimate, pitch-dark hallway. At its far finish, illuminated in solitary brilliance, stands a single crucifix.

This rock crystal reliquary was born within the sixteenth century by the hands of Renaissance grasp gem engraver Valerio Belli. It’s mentioned to include fragments of the True Cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified — fragments authenticated by the Vatican. Of the three surviving editions of this masterpiece, the opposite two are housed in Vatican Metropolis and the V&A Museum.

“As an advocate for the artwork of jewellery, it has lengthy been my want to create a sacred place the place as many individuals as attainable can immediately expertise and immerse themselves within the magnificence and emotion of this world,” the collector shared. “I firmly consider that this sacred time and house of magnificence will permit us to really feel the inseparable connection between ourselves as beings and the planet that offers us life.”

“The Artwork of Jewelry” runs by way of March 16 on the Lotte Museum of Artwork.

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